Mjølkevegen –
through Valdres on two wheels

As you don your bicycle helmet by the large, clear meltwater lake Vinstre, Jotunheimen’s enormous mountains rise in the background. The unforgettable view is a breathtaking invitation to an equally memorable ride.

Valdres is located in the middle of the mountain highlands, just south of Jotunheimen. It is home to a bicycle route of 250 kilometres that goes from Vinstre at around 1,000 metres above sea level, to Gol at 200 metres above sea level.

An out of this world cycling universe

The route, which is called Mjølkevegen (“The milky way”), reaches 1,300 metres above sea level at its highest point. The name is not a reference to our galaxy, however – it rather comes from the dairies that use the route to collect milk from the many free-range dairy cows in the highlands.

Going through rolling hills and expansive stretches of grass, it is no wonder that this is one of Norway’s most popular cycle routes.

Bike routes of all difficulty levels

The peaceful, slow-moving cows who share the road with you sometimes are a nice part of the cycling holiday, but also something to keep in mind when your bicycle starts to pick up speed. You will also see many goats, but they tend to stick to the hillier terrain.

Although Valdres is at a high altitude and latitude, the climate stays mild and sunny throughout the summer, so do remember suncream.

Maps will show the path as going downhill all the way, but as you pedal along you will find that the landscape is much more varied. Mjølkevegen has a mix of demanding uphill climbs, dizzying downhill runs, long continuous stretches sweeping over open terrain past glittering lakes, and even occasional patches of forest at the lowest elevations.

Occasionally, the route offers challenges that will delight diehard cyclists – but it never gets too challenging for the casual rider.

It is also worth noting that there are equally good options to begin your route in the south, for example in Gol in Hallingdal, and ride towards the north instead of vice versa. It is no more or less hilly and challenging that way.

If it is the sun itself that causes perspiration more than the rides, make sure that you do not break a sweat from worrying about where you or your suitcases are staying.

Tour operators have prepared a smorgasbord of packages that divide your trip into appropriate stages with both accommodation and luggage transport included. Spend your days enjoying the surroundings and your exercise

All hotels serve breakfast and usually offer packed lunch options for your continued journey through the cycling universe of Mjølkevegen.

The northernmost ferry route

On the mountain lake Bygdin, you can combine your bike ride with a ferry trip that has been around for more than 100 years.

The M/S Bitihorn ferry has sailed the same route across the lake every day since it first launched in 1912, giving tourists a unique view of Jotunheimen’s towering mountain peaks reflected in the clear waters of the lake.

Sleep well, eat well

When you think of accommodation in Norway, you may very well think of rustic cottages. They are waiting for you in beautiful locations throughout Valdres, but so are more modern comforts if that’s what you prefer.

At various places along the route, modern luxury hotels can give you the rest you deserve after a day of pedalling, so come wash that dirt off and cool down in a gorgeous spa or swimming pool.

If you dine at a restaurant, try the “rakfisk” – a delicacy usually made of trout, prepared similar to smoked salmon in a kind of brine. It is an appetizer that most fish lovers will be glad to savour.

Valdres is best known for its rakfisk, but the area has a number of other culinary specialities that curious cyclists will enjoy sampling. This is especially true of smoked meats such as “kurv”, a type of sausage. Other treasured specialities are different kinds of deer meat, white cheese, brown cheese, and goat cheese.

The Norwegians are crazy about their brown cheese, most often made from a mixture of cow and goat milk – and they love sharing it with others. Read more about Norway’s food traditions.

However, if you are in the mood to keep your adventures on the road and not on your plate, rest assured that all menus will also include recognizable international favourites.

If for some reason you choose not to try the many dairy products that have given the bike route in Valdres its name, you should at least give this last recommendation a try. Norwegians have developed an interest in craft beers over recent years, so plan to wash down your meal with a good, cold beer.