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Ice climbing in Setesdal Ice climbing in Setesdal Climbing in ice in Setesdal
Ice climbing in Setesdal Climbing in ice in Setesdal
Ice climbing in Setesdal.
Photo: Anders Martinsen Fotografer

An Eldorado for ice climbers

So far, Setesdal might have been an unknown climbing paradise, but its numerous waterfalls and mountains provide world-class routes both summer and winter. When winter has well and truly set in, the waterfalls turn into magnificent ice climbing spots.

In cooperation with the Oxford Climbing Club, Geoff Hornby has published an English climbing guide with a description of more than 150 routes in Setesdal. Geoff Hornby is a very experienced climber who has explored routes in Himalaya, Alaska and the Alps, where he has climbed both mountains and ice.

This guide has made many English ice climbing enthusiasts aware of the possibilities and excellent conditions in Setesdal. 
Read more on the website ukclimbing.com

Frozen waterfall in Setesdal
Med guide eller mye erfaring
Anders Martinsen Fotografer
Climbing in ice in Setesdal
Opp og fram
Anders Martinsen Fotografer
Ice climbing in Setesdal
Ta med eget utstyr
Anders Martinsen Fotografer
Ice climbing in Setesdal
Hjelm er et must
Anders Martinsen Fotografer

"The Three Billy Goats Gruff"

In the Ose area, in the northern part of the municipality Byglandsfjord, are three of the most popular waterfalls for ice climbing: Heisfossen, Heddersvikfossen and Reiårsfossen. In this order, they give a very nice, natural progression. All these waterfalls are highly visible landmarks.

This is the easiest of "the Three Billy Goats Gruff", between two and four rope lengths, depending on which route you choose.
Description: Nice introduction waterfall; offers variation and easy, versatile climbing. The waterfall faces west.

This is the big brother of Heisfossen and is located on the eastern side of the lake Åraksfjorden, between Ose and Åraksbø.
Description: Impressive waterfall with a steep middle section. Otherwise gently sloping ice with small clusters and plateaus. Between two and six rope lengths, depending on desired protection. PLEASE NOTE: The waterfall faces southwest.

This is "the Boss". The most famous and impressive waterfall in Setesdal, next to the main road RV 9.
Description: The waterfall looks every bit a challenge from a distance, but becomes more approachable at a closer range. Climbing here will nevertheless require skills due to a heavy flow of water and uneven freezing. Please check the ice conditions carefully! Five to six rope lengths, where the first two are the steepest and most exposed ones. This is a magnificent climb. The waterfall faces east.

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