Kayaking into the midnight sun

Paddling on the still waters of the north by midnight is probably the closest you’ll ever get to bathing in gold.

Text: Julie Nordby Egeland

Explore Northern Norway

Northern Norway is by far the largest and most sparsely populated part of mainland Norway, and covers more than a third of the country. It stretches from the idyllic Helgeland region in the south to mainland Europe’s northernmost point near the North Cape.

What is the midnight sun?

The midnight sun is a natural phenomenon that occurs during the summer in places south of the Antarctic Circle and north of the Arctic Circle – including Northern Norway.

The earth is rotating at a tilted axis relative to the sun, and during the summer months, the North Pole is angled towards our star. That’s why, for several weeks, the sun never sets above the Arctic Circle.

Svalbard is the place in Norway where the midnight sun occurs for the longest period. Here, the sun doesn’t set between 20 April and 22 August.

It’s all quiet. Really quiet. It’s the middle of the night and we’re out paddling on the coast of Helgeland. As our kayaks glide through the fjord, we see Svartisen, the second largest glacier in Norway, bulging in the landscape before us. Beneath those thousands of tons of ice, we paddle our way through the labyrinths of the rugged archipelago to take a closer look.

When the midnight sun peeks out, it is reflected in the crystal clear water – warm, golden light stretches across the surface. “You really do paddle directly into the sun”, says kayak instructor Anne Maria Leune.

“It’s like bathing in gold.”
– Anne Maria Leune

Svartisen.
Photo: Avani / Visitnorway.com

The need for silence

The way a kayak cuts quietly into the water in front of it, flowing smoothly forward in pace with your strokes, is really quite hypnotizing. That, of course, applies for paddling on lakes and rivers, too. But the experience that will really burn into your memory is when you try it in the northern ocean waters under the light of the midnight sun.

One would think that rough ripples or fear of falling into the sea would distract you. But by night time the waters north of the Arctic Circle are often incredibly still. “Since you paddle in the middle of the night, there are very few boats or disturbing noises heard from the landside. It’s a feeling of total serenity”, Leune says.

The experienced instructor at Rocks & Rivers strongly believes that kayaking at midnight has a therapeutic effect.

“I think in the modern world, where there are noise and buzz everywhere you go, and where everyone has earplugs and music in their ears just to go to the shop, there’s a need for a deeper silence. We northerners cultivate this quietness, as we have done for generations out on the sea”, Leune explains.

Northern Norway.
Photo: Rocks & Rivers

Kayaking on a calm summer day.
Photo: Rocks & Rivers

Kayaking in Vega.
Photo: Anton Ligaarden / Visitnorway.com

People getting ready to go kayaking in Rødøy, Helgeland.
Photo: Terje Rakke / NordicLife / Helgeland Reiseliv

Midnight sun in Bodø.
Photo: Tommy Andreassen / www.nordnorge.com/Bodø

The sea under the midnight sun near Bodø, Salten, Northern Norway

The sea is in their blood

The traces of those generations are visible from the kayak. You will spot old fishing villages at the coast – characteristic wooden shelters painted in bright colours. For hundreds of years, dried and salted cod from these waters were exported to the European continent through the Hanseatic office in Bergen, in return for grains and other commodities. To this day, the export of fish is vital to the economy here. Every year, Norway exports fish for billions of euros, to the continent and beyond.

In light of this, knowing how to face the sea – and to live from it – has always been crucial for the northerners. “In the 1950s, there was a young boy living at the island of Bolvær who would row a mile each day through the rugged coast, just to get to school and back”, says Bjørn Erik Jansen, a kayak guide in Brønnøysund. “Using our hands to make our way through the sea – it’s in our blood. It has led to not only wealth but to a certain lifestyle that we still nourish.”

Rødøy, Helgeland.
Photo: Terje Rakke / NordicLife / Helgeland Reiseliv

Close to nature

Dynamic Variation:

Kjerkfjorden, Lofoten.
Photo: Tomasz Furmanek / Visitnorway.com

“Being in the kayak lets you see hidden treasures of the north that really can’t be seen from anywhere else. The kayak is a way for us northerners to get as close to our nature as possible, and we wish our visitors to get that experience as well.”

Staying in a traditional rorbu (fisherman's cabin) or in a comfy hotel or cabin right by the sea adds yet another layer of magic to the adventure.

Curious porpoises

Don’t be afraid to feel alone out on the sea, even though it’s after midnight. One or two guests who are very awake will probably accompany you. “The porpoises here are very curious and often eager to visit the paddlers”, Leune says and laughs. The small, toothed whales look almost like dolphins, except for the shorter beaks.

If you are more into flying creatures, the route at Engavågen stops by an eagle’s nest. “You actually get to paddle underneath the nest. It’s pretty cool”, Leune says.

The northern veteran is in no doubt that paddling is one of the best ways to experience the brightness of the midnight sun. “In the kayak, you appreciate the midnight sun in a complete and different way. Being in the kayak also lets you see hidden treasures of the north that really can’t be seen from anywhere else”.

Explore Northern Norway

Top 3 places to kayak in
midnight sun:

Engavågen: Offers quiet paddling underneath the glacier “Svartisen” and through the rugged islands of Meløy.

Tromsø: Offers kayak camping and overnight tours on the coast of Kvaløya (The whale island).

Svalbard: Offers beach landing and the vision of towering mountains on the east side of “Adventfjorden”.

The paddling code

1. Choose a boat that suits your skills as well as the trip.

2. Make sure your equipment is in order.

3. Dress according to the water temperature. Bring extra clothes, just in case you need to change.

4. Wear an approved life jacket. Choose one that is designed for paddling and kayaking for the best comfort and range of arm and upper body motion.

5. Don’t overvalue your skills. Practice self-rescue techniques so you know what to do if you capsize.

6. If you capsize, don’t leave your boat or your oar.

7. Respect the weather and check the weather conditions before you go kayaking or canoeing.

8. Keep a safe distance to other boats and make sure others can see you.

9. Learn first aid treatments so you can help in an emergency.

10. Respect mother nature and be considerate. Don’t leave your rubbish behind.

Life under the midnight sun

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