A model in blue Gombi clothing

Modern Sami design

An increasing number of designers are proudly implementing their Sami heritage into their designs. Brands like Gobmi and LilleLi have a strong desire to share their culture through fashion and jewellery that can be worn by anyone.

Fresh ideas are emerging and creative sparks are flying in the Norwegian Sami community these days. Sami art and design have garnered international acclaim, gracing prestigious venues such as the Venice Biennale and being featured in esteemed fashion magazines like Vogue.

Emerging design and clothing brands are being celebrated for their innovative, inclusive, and modern approach to incorporating Sami heritage into their products.

We talked to several of them!

The sisters behind the brand Gobmi hugging each other.

Photo: Embla Augusta Hjort-Larsen

Reclaiming their heritage

"We grew up in Alta surrounded by Sami culture, but were always told that we were Norwegian and not Sami. Then a few years ago, a close family member had a stroke and suddenly started speaking Sami," says Live Moen Johannessen.

Together with her sister, Hanna Moen Reinsnes, she embarked on a journey to discover more about their identity. They also wanted to find a modern way to express their culture on a daily basis, without wearing traditional Sami clothing known as a kofte or gákti.

After waiting a few years for someone else to do it, Live and Hanna eventually realised that it was up to them, even though they had no experience when it came to starting a clothing brand.

That is how the modern Sami clothing brand Gobmi was founded in 2021. Gobmi means "ghost" in Northern Sami, and the name relates to their own personal awakening, through bringing back a ghost from the past. 

"We need more modern ways to express Sami design and culture beyond souvenirs in gift shops. We wanted something real that would allow our culture to progress in everyday life," say the sisters.

Embroidery of a naked Sami chasing another with a lasso

Photo: Lucas Gaussen

An inclusive brand

If you're not Sami, you can still wear clothes from Gobmi.

"The plan was to create an inclusive clothing brand. We value the importance of cultural diversity and hope people can identify with that," say Live and Hanna.

Live is responsible for the designs and has two main channels of inspiration that she strives to connect. On the one hand she focuses on implementing Sami cultural heritage in a subtle and balanced way; on the other she draws inspiration from the fashion industry and what people are wearing right now.

The sisters make urban clothing in the hope of reaching different environments.

"One of our early goals was to see people wearing our designs around the trendy Grünerløkka neighbourhood in Oslo, and this is now a reality. It's so cool to see people outside of Sapmi wearing our clothes too," says Hanna.

The sisters want their universally formed clothing to be worn just like any other designs out there.

  • A model wearing Gobmi clothing
    Woman in a shiny pink reindeer leather set from the brand Gobmi
    T-shirt from Gobmi with Sami women embroidered on it
    Shiny green reindeer leather set from the brand Gobmi.

More exciting Sami designers

Gobmi and LilleLi aren't the only brands creating modern Sami designs. They think you should definitely check out these ones too:Laš Studio in Tromsø

Laš Studio is both a brand and a physical shop in Tromsø. This clothing shop is dedicated to Scandinavian fashion and offers a curated selection of Nordic designs. They sell their own modern Sami designs under the Laš name and also carry brands like Gobmi.

Sami Stories

Sami Stories create interior design products with a Sami identity, including mugs, wool blankets, kitchen towels, bowls, cards, and wool seat pads.

Gába

Gába is an indigenous fashion brand run by Anette Smuk Buljo from Finnmark. It offers a collection of winter boots and mittens made from reindeer leather, produced in Italy, using traditional Sami techniques.

Graveniid of Sápmi

Graveniid of Sápmi from Karasjok has been around since 1985. It creates its own timeless wool designs and sells everything from wooly hats to trousers and skirts.

Sami Elements

Gobmi's very first collection was released in autumn 2022 and was called Bearaš, which means family in Northern Sami. All the items have names such as Eadni (mum) and Áhčči (dad).

One of their signature embroideries is a woman in a ládjogahppir (a Sami horn hat). This hat was banned at the end of the 19th century, during a time when the Sami faced harsh assimilation policies from the Norwegian government. It was believed that the devil lived in the horn part of the hat.

"The Sami horn hat has a really cool story and its revival reminds us of our own journey. We think that the struggle of not being allowed to be your true self is something that a lot of people can relate to," say the sisters.

Sustainable focus

It's no secret that the fashion industry is one of the world's largest polluters, so Live and Hanna decided to be as sustainable as possible. They were one of the first companies in Norway to use 3D technology for clothing prototypes, everything is produced in Europe, and they use reindeer leather.

"It was important for us to include Sami reindeer husbandry in our collection. Traditionally we use the entire animal and the leather is a by-product of meat production, meaning that nothing goes to waste," explains Hanna.

Since their launch they have received an overwhelming amount of positive support from Sapmi. They've also won several awards and been published in Vogue Scandinavia as an up-and-coming brand worth checking out.

Their items can be bought online, at popups or at the shop Laš Studio in Tromsø.

A portait of Lill-Eli Jørgensen-Dahl, the owner of LilleLi Smykker

Photo: Dànil Røkke

Inspired by ancient traditions

"I've always been creative and I started making jewellery as a hobby. It wasn't until I started selling my pieces at a market in Alta that I realised that it could be something more," says Lill-Eli Jørgensen-Dahl.

Lill-Eli is the woman behind the jewellery brand LilleLi Smykker, which redesigns traditional silver jewellery for everyday wear.

LilleLi was founded in 2015 and is now Lill-Eli's full time job. She saw a gap in the market and decided that she wanted to find a way to modify historic designs.

"Why can't we wear our most beautiful jewellery everyday?" asks Lill-Eli.

She grew up in Karasjok in Finnmark, but now lives and works in the nearby town of Alta. The local environment is a big inspiration for Lill-Eli, as the designer often finds peace in the mountains. New ideas also often come to her while she's busy creating other pieces.

Silver bracelet resting on a slab of wood

Photo: Lill-Eli Jørgensen-Dahl

Designed for everyone

Much of LilleLi jewellery is made from 925 gilded and sterling silver and she sometimes also uses stone beads and wood.

Silver is an important part of Sami culture, as there is a belief that silver and other types of metal can protect you from evil and bring you luck. Historically, the Sami would acquire silver through trade and give babies silver amulets for protection.

Nowadays it's common for Sami people to wear silver accessories and the gákti (traditional Sami clothing) is usually adorned with large silver brooches, clasps, and belt buttons.

"My pieces can be worn by absolutely anyone, regardless of ethnicity and culture. People often think they can't wear my jewellery, as it resembles Sami and bunad (traditional Norwegian costume) silver, but my modern designs are universal and can be worn anytime, anywhere," says Lill-Eli.

Her designs can be purchased in Alta and can also be found in a numerous museums, galleries and shops in both Norway and Sweden. LilleLi jewellery has also previously been exhibited and sold at the British Museum in London.

women posing while wearing jewellery from LilleLi Smykker

Get inspired

Young Sami woman with a reindeer in Røros
Experience Sami culture
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Heart of the Sami – Kautokeino and Karasjok
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Sami culture has also inspired architecture

Learn more about Sami culture

  • Sami stories

    Sami stories: Representation

    Sami stories: Expressions

    Sami stories: The sound of Sápmi

    Visit the Sami heartland

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