Sami kofte
Traditional indigenous clothing
Vibrant colours, shiny silver, and reindeer leather.
Sami people of all ages and genders wear the traditional costume called a kofte in Norwegian, known as gákti in Northern Sami.
This traditional clothing has a rich diversity of styles, which can vary depending on where you're from, your ancestry and your creativity.
Although the Sami can today wear their kofte with pride, their culture was for many years in the past threatened by forced assimilation policies. Despite this, they've managed to preserve their traditions and bring them into the modern world.
A way to show your identity
Each traditional kofte is sewn in its own unique way, allowing the wearer to express their identity. Even though they have set patterns, there are a variety of ways to vary fabrics and adornments in order to personalise them even more.
In Norway there are countless types of kofter, many of which are connected to a region or a place, including the Karasjok kofta, Lyngen kofta, and Røros kofta.
The main piece of the kofte resembles a loose tunic with a belt around the middle. It can be worn with a silk shawl, silver adornments, silk neck scarves, reindeer leather trousers, hats, and kommager (shoes made from reindeer leather).
In the past, the kofte was purely made from reindeer leather and fur, but are now made using wool, felt and cotton, too.
These historic items of clothing are still worn on cold days, including reindeer leather mittens, skaller (shoes made from reindeer fur and leather), wool shawls/capes, and the pesk with a dork underneath.
The pesk is a full outer layer/tunic made from reindeer fur that face outwards, while the dork is a similar inner layer with fur facing inwards for extra warmth.
The classic kofte colours are red, blue, green, yellow and black.
There are also differences between the male and female kofte. The male kofte is usually shorter with a larger collar, while the hem on the female kofte tends to be more decorative.
Keeping traditions alive
The Sami kofte is a living tradition which has survived despite facing its own challenges over the years. The Sami once wore their kofte every day as they were designed to withstand the elements.
But from 1850 until the mid 1900s the Norwegian state forced the Sami people to adhere to strict assimilation policies.
The Sami were forced to become 'Norwegian' and give up their own language, song tradition known as joik, religion, and clothing. These policies have had consequences that continue to this day. Despite all the hardships of the past, people are now proudly reclaiming their heritage and reviving Sami culture.
Changing fashions have also influenced the design of the kofte over the years.
"The sewing machine really revolutionised kofte designs - they were much simpler before that," explains Nils-Henrik Sara, a Sami reindeer herder at Sami Siida in Alta.
People often sew their own kofte at home. There's one style in particular that lets their creativity flow.
"The summer kofte can be made from any fabric with whatever colour or pattern your heart desires," says Nils-Henrik.
The Sami kofte is usually worn on special occasions like weddings, confirmations, Norway's national day, the Sami national day and other cultural or political events. And there are still some Sami who wear them daily.
Nils-Henrik is wearing the Kautokeino kofta, one of the most colourful and well-known kofte in Norway.
It has plenty of embellishments and has been adapted from ancient traditions.
Some of the adornments also bear a meaning that can be interpreted by the observer.
"In the Kautokeino region, you have to be married in order to have square buttons on your belt. Before that, you wear round ones," explains Nils-Henrik.
The new generation
Young Sami tend to have a broader perspective on what a kofte can look like.
One of those is actress and designer Eirin Roseneng, who didn't know she was Sami until she was her early 20s when a chat with a local historian made her look into her own heritage.
"I asked myself how I could embrace my Sami heritage without knowing the language. That's when I realised that I could use my sewing skills to make my own kofte," says Eirin.
A relative gave her a sewing pattern. Once she had created her first kofte, Eirin quickly received requests from her grandmother, mum and little sister.
They now proudly wear their Sami traditional clothing. This eventually led to Eirin now sewing kofte for people outside of her family too.
Once she got the hang of making a kofte, Eirin started experimenting with more modern designs and looking for ways to implement her personality into them.
A blend of modern and traditional
"I enjoy blending traditional elements with modern designs, as this allows you to express your identity and personality in the present," says Eirin.
She wanted to find a way to show her Sami culture on a daily basis, without having to always wear a kofte.
"I think a lot of people can relate to that, as there are certain expectations tied to being Sami and it can be intimidating to wear a kofte for the first time, especially if you don't know the language or haven't grown up surrounded by Sami culture."
Eirin decided to design a Sami inspired hoodie with details that can be found on a traditional kofte.
She has tremendous respect for the traditional patterns and uses them as a source of inspiration for her modern designs.
There are also certain types of kofte that she won't make for people, as she feels that she doesn't have enough knowledge to do them justice.
The hoodie isn't her only design, as she also makes modern Sami handbags. She uses authentic sewing patterns, but gives them a fresh twist with colourful and alternative fabrics.
This has also resulted in more imaginative versions of a Sami kofte.
"I try to wear a kofte as often as possible. I think it's great that I can wear a glittery kofte to a party instead of a glittery top. People think it's cool," says Eirin.
Her designs have been well received and she's even sent orders all the way to the US.
Generally, you only wear the kofte that belongs to your region or ancestry, but Sami-inspired designs, like Eirin's, are open to anyone.
"People are so happy to be able to wear something related to Sami culture without the fear of feeling like an imposter," says Eirin.
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