Modern Sami design
An increasing number of designers are proudly implementing their Sami heritage into their designs. Brands like Gobmi and LilleLi have a strong desire to share their culture through fashion and jewellery that can be worn by anyone.
Fresh ideas are emerging and creative sparks are flying in the Norwegian Sami community these days. Sami art and design have garnered international acclaim, gracing prestigious venues such as the Venice Biennale and being featured in esteemed fashion magazines like Vogue.
Emerging design and clothing brands are being celebrated for their innovative, inclusive, and modern approach to incorporating Sami heritage into their products.
We talked to several of them!
Photo: Embla Augusta Hjort-Larsen
Reclaiming their heritage
"We grew up in Alta surrounded by Sami culture, but were always told that we were Norwegian and not Sami. Then a few years ago, a close family member had a stroke and suddenly started speaking Sami," says Live Moen Johannessen.
Together with her sister, Hanna Moen Reinsnes, she embarked on a journey to discover more about their identity. They also wanted to find a modern way to express their culture on a daily basis, without wearing traditional Sami clothing known as a kofte or gákti.
After waiting a few years for someone else to do it, Live and Hanna eventually realised that it was up to them, even though they had no experience when it came to starting a clothing brand.
That is how the modern Sami clothing brand Gobmiwas founded in2021. Gobmi means "ghost" in Northern Sami, and the name relates to their own personal awakening, through bringing back a ghost from the past.
"We need more modern ways to express Sami design and culture beyond souvenirs in gift shops. We wanted something real that would allow our culture to progress in everyday life," say the sisters.
Photo: Lucas Gaussen
An inclusive brand
If you're not Sami, you can still wear clothes from Gobmi.
"The plan was to create an inclusive clothing brand. We value the importance of cultural diversity and hope people can identify with that," say Live and Hanna.
Live is responsible for the designs and has two main channels of inspiration that she strives to connect. On the one hand she focuses on implementing Sami cultural heritage in a subtle and balanced way; on the other she draws inspiration from the fashion industry and what people are wearing right now.
The sisters make urban clothing in the hope of reaching different environments.
"One of our early goals was to see people wearing our designs around the trendy Grünerløkka neighbourhood in Oslo, and this is now a reality. It's so cool to see people outside of Sapmi wearing our clothes too," says Hanna.
The sisters want their universally formed clothing to be worn just like any other designs out there.
Sami Elements
Gobmi's very first collection was released in autumn 2022 and was called Bearaš, which means family in Northern Sami. All the items have names such as Eadni (mum) and Áhčči (dad).
One of their signature embroideries is a woman in a ládjogahppir (a Sami horn hat). This hat was banned at the end of the 19th century, during a time when the Sami faced harsh assimilation policies from the Norwegian government. It was believed that the devil lived in the horn part of the hat.
"The Sami horn hat has a really cool story and its revival reminds us of our own journey. We think that the struggle of not being allowed to be your true self is something that a lot of people can relate to," say the sisters.
Sustainable focus
It's no secret that the fashion industry is one of the world's largest polluters, so Live and Hanna decided to be as sustainable as possible. They were one of the first companies in Norway to use 3D technology for clothing prototypes, everything is produced in Europe, and they use reindeer leather.
"It was important for us to include Sami reindeer husbandry in our collection. Traditionally we use the entire animal and the leather is a by-product of meat production, meaning that nothing goes to waste," explains Hanna.
Since their launch they have received an overwhelming amount of positive support from Sapmi. They've also won several awards and been published in Vogue Scandinavia as an up-and-coming brand worth checking out.
Their items can be bought online, at popups or at the shop Laš Studio in Tromsø.
Photo: Dànil Røkke
Inspired by ancient traditions
"I've always been creative and I started making jewellery as a hobby. It wasn't until I started selling my pieces at a market in Alta that I realised that it could be something more," says Lill-Eli Jørgensen-Dahl.
Lill-Eli is the woman behind the jewellery brand LilleLi Smykker, which redesigns traditional silver jewellery for everyday wear.
LilleLi was founded in 2015 and is now Lill-Eli's full time job. She saw a gap in the market and decided that she wanted to find a way to modify historic designs.
"Why can't we wear our most beautiful jewellery everyday?" asks Lill-Eli.
She grew up in Karasjok in Finnmark, but now lives and works in the nearby town of Alta. The local environment is a big inspiration for Lill-Eli, as the designer often finds peace in the mountains. New ideas also often come to her while she's busy creating other pieces.
Photo: Lill-Eli Jørgensen-Dahl
Designed for everyone
Much of LilleLi jewellery is made from 925 gilded and sterling silver and she sometimes also uses stone beads and wood.
Silver is an important part of Sami culture, as there is a belief that silver and other types of metal can protect you from evil and bring you luck. Historically, the Sami would acquire silver through trade and give babies silver amulets for protection.
Nowadays it's common for Sami people to wear silver accessories and the gákti (traditional Sami clothing) is usually adorned with large silver brooches, clasps, and belt buttons.
"My pieces can be worn by absolutely anyone, regardless of ethnicity and culture. People often think they can't wear my jewellery, as it resembles Sami and bunad (traditional Norwegian costume) silver, but my modern designs are universal and can be worn anytime, anywhere," says Lill-Eli.
Her designs can be purchased in Alta and can also be found in a numerous museums, galleries and shops in both Norway and Sweden. LilleLi jewellery has also previously been exhibited and sold at the British Museum in London.
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