Rallarvegen – cycle through navvy history

Following the outskirts of the Hardangervidda mountain plateau, Rallarvegen (The navvies’ road) leads you along the Bergen train line from Haugastøl to Flåm by the Sognefjord, or to Voss closer to the Hardangerfjord. On your way, you pass Finse, Hallingskeid, and Myrdal. The route was first opened for cycling in 1974, and the last few years about 25,000 cyclists from Norway and abroad find their way here every year.

You can cycle the whole distance in one day, or you can spend a few days and really see the sights along the road. You can also choose to cycle only parts of the distance if you so desire.

The construction route known as Rallarvegen was originally designed for transporting materials during the building of the most mountainous sector of the Oslo–Bergen railway line. Today, the road is a cultural and historical monument where you will discover painstakingly detailed work in stone and earth, line inspectors’ houses of high architectural standard, and scenery that spans from tall mountains and glaciers via high waterfalls and wild rivers to lush valleys and fjord views.

The best time to cycle Rallarvegen is from mid-July to the end of September. In the high season and on weekends it is wise to pre-book rental bikes, train tickets, and accommodation. Bike rental is available at Haugastøl, Finse, and Myrdal, and you can return the bicycle in Flåm. Or why not invest in a cycle package with everything included?

If you’re travelling with children – or are afraid of heights – note that Rallarvegen is pretty steep at times and that the road is largely unsecured and not always in the best condition. You will also have to cycle through some snow-covered stretches. Make sure to bring spare brake pads and necessary equipment in case of a puncture, as well as clothes for all types of weather.

The small town Geilo is a great starting point for the trip, and it is easy to get to Rallarvegen from Oslo or Bergen by train. There are a number of private hotels and mountain lodges along the route, as well as plenty of options for wildlife camping.

Stages along Rallarvegen

Haugastøl to Finse

This stretch is recommended if you’re bringing children, as the road is in good condition. Rallarvegen starts by the Haugastøl tourist centre close to the Haugastøl train station. Here, you can rent bikes or buy a bike rental package.

The cycle route from Haugastøl to Finse rises 222 metres through scenic nature, with plenty of cultural artefacts from the time when the Bergen Line was built. At Finse, you can take a guided tour on Hardangejøkulen glacier, and a visit to the Rallar museum is mandatory.

Finse to Hallingskeid

At Finse, you can see the ice cap and icefalls of the Hardangerjøkulen glacier. Don’t be surprised if snow covers parts of the road well into the autumn, and be aware that parts of the road are in poor condition. The route takes you into the Hardangervidda national park and up to Lake Fagervatnet (1,343 masl), Rallarvegen’s highest point. From here, there is more or less downhill all the way to Flåm. At Fagernut, you can stop and explore the exhibition on display and taste some yummy “Rallarvafler” (waffles) and “Sluskesuppe” (soup).

Hallingskeid to Vatnahalsen

Along this part of the route, the high mountain scenery changes gradually into the wilder and steeper landscape of the western part of the country. Between Hallingskeid and Myrdal, the railway creeps along a mountain shelf, a stretch troubled by avalanches during the winter months. The road follows a narrow shelf, so be careful – unmount your bike and walk. You also have to decide if you want to carry on to Myrdal and Flåm, or if you’d rather take the route to Voss.

Vatnahalsen to Flåm

From Vatnahalsen, a steep run through 21 hairpin bends will take you down to the Flåmsdalen valley. We strongly advise that you get off your bike at the steepest parts of the hairpin bends, as the road is rocky and in poor condition in places. From the upper part of Flåmsdalen, there is a pleasant winding road down to Flåm. The valley opens up to show you steep mountains, vertical waterfalls, fast-flowing rivers, and green valley terrain. Enjoy the ride, stop and look back, listen to the sounds of nature, and enjoy the streams of crystal clear water and the fresh air.

Alternative route: Myrdal to Voss

From Myrdal, you can choose the route to Voss instead of cycling down to Flåm. Take the local train from Myrdal to Uppsete, where you continue along Rallarvegen to Mjølfjell. From there, follow the standard road to Voss.

Not only cycling

Stay a few days extra and walk the Aurlandsdalen valley or the Royal post road along the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord. From Bakka at Gudvangen, you can hike up the Rimstigen path to Rimstigfjellet mountain, where you have a great view of the Nærøyfjord. Join a fjord cruise, rent a kayak, take a swim in the fjord, or go on a journey with the Flåm railway, one of the world’s most beautiful train rides.

Get tour cycling expert Øyvind Wold’s best tips on how to plan and pack for your cycling trip, and check out 13 of the most scenic bike routes in the country.