Bergen by the harbour
Bergen by the harbour
“I find dead bodies and traces of murder everywhere.”

Gunnar Staalesen

You never know what dark secrets and delightful surprises lie around the next corner when strolling through Bergen with key Nordic noir writer Gunnar Staalesen.

Come along and check out one of the world's most beautiful fictional crime scenes.

Bergen's best cultural spots

With Gunnar Staalesen

Few locals are as well versed in Bergen's streets and narrow alleyways as Gunnar Staalesen. His books about tough, hard-nosed private detective Varg Veum have been translated into 20 languages and made into 12 films.

What is the Cultural Triangle?

The Cultural Triangle is a series where renowned Norwegian cultural personalities show you their favourite spots in Norway's biggest cities, and give you their best local tips on where to eat and sleep, and what to see.

Nordic noir

Nordic noir, or Scandinavian noir, is a genre of crime fiction that is usually written from a police point of view, set in moody northern locations in Scandinavia. The works are characterised by social criticism and a sense of despair, and the plots often centre on brutal crimes of shocking violence, often with multiple threads and a few twists. Many successful novels in the genre have also been made into films and television series.

"I have written 19 novels and a handful of short stories about Varg Veum and have covered every nook and cranny of Bergen in the series. For example, in Wolves in the Dark, a man dies in the house behind us," he says.

Staalesen's cultural triangle

Staalesen has taken us to Nordnes, the first of his three cultural highlights. This is the neighbourhood where he was born in the 1940s, just a few years after his fictional hero Varg Veum.

"Varg actually grew up in the same street as myself, but he is five years older. I thought of him as one of the older boys in the street," he tells us.

A lot has changed since then. Back then, multiple families often shared space in these small wooden houses, and the streets were full of children playing.

“We are now entering Trangesmauet (Narrow Alley). Its name is self-explanatory. Maren Kristine Pedersen, the femme fatale in my series about Bergen, lives in one of these houses," says Staalesen, gesturing with his hand.

“One dark New Year's night, Maren Kristine is visited in her attic by Consul Frimann. On the way home from the visit, the Consul is brutally murdered by a person, whose identity remains unknown until the last pages of the third volume. So, lots of things have happened here in Trangesmauet," says the author.

The narrow alley "Trangesmauet" in Bergen

Bergen is inextricably linked to Gunnar Staalesen and his long running series of books that have a devoted following. Staalesen is also an excellent and engaging guide who talks with warmth, pride, and passion as he shows us through the old alleyways and wooden treehouses that characterize the Nordnes neighbourhood in the old Hansa city of Bergen, that used to be one of the most important trading cities in Europe.

He takes us around the corner to Skottegaten, where several unsolved crimes are committed in the Varg Veum series.

Gunnar Staalesen walking in Skottegaten in Bergen
Houses in the hillside in Bergen, Fjord Norway
Houses in the hillside in Bergen, Fjord Norway
The streets of Nordnes in Bergen
“I have found a lot of inspiration for my writing in these alleyways.”

Gunnar Staalesen

“This street is called Skottegaten, simply because this was where the city's Scottish community once lived.”

Gunnar Staalesen

Bergen has become home to many immigrants from Germany, the Netherlands, and the British Isles. This has given the city a continental feel that it still retains today.

“Some people believe — including some people from Oslo — that Bergen is the only continental city in Norway.”

Gunnar Staalesen

We leave these old wooden houses behind and stroll over to Fisketorget, the fish market by the harbour.

“Varg Veum's office is here in this building. It's on the fourth floor, the fourth window from the left.”

Gunnar Staalesen

But even crime heroes and writers get hungry. And that brings us to Staalesen's second cultural highlight, restaurant Bien Basar.

It's located in the heart of Kjøttbasaren, an old meat market that's been converted to house modern restaurants and cafes. The stately building was erected after the cholera epidemic, which ravaged Bergen and Europe in the 1840s.

“There were once 40-45 market stalls crammed together in here. As befits the premises, Bien Basar serves classic and traditional Norwegian food,” says Staalesen.

Even here, you can find traces of the author's private detective character.

Gunnar Staalesen sitting by the table at Bien Basar in Bergen
“Varg Veum passes by here every day on his way to his office. In one book, he was hit by a car and almost killed here.”

Gunnar Staalesen

Little do we suspect that Staalesen is about to be served a dish to die for ...

“This is one of my absolute favorite dishes: persetorsk (pressed cod).”

Gunnar Staalesen

For this unique Bergen dish, the cod is first marinated in a mixture that's both sweet and salty, before being pressed together to release some of the liquid. This makes the filet a little firmer than fresh cod. It's precisely this firmness that is so characteristic of persetorsk.

“This dish is specially made by Gard Haugland, who is truly one of the best chefs in Bergen.”

Gunnar Staalesen

2020. Post festum

Staalesen´s latest book is the stand-alone novel 2020. Post festum. It deals with the major events of the last twenty years seen from the perspective of the capital of Fjord Norway. This time, Varg Veum has to solve the mystery of the Isdal woman,an unidentified female who was found dead in the woods in Isdal, or Ice Valley. The mystery has become known internationally through a podcast series made by the BBC and Norwegian broadcaster NRK.

After praising both chef and dish, it's time for some literary refreshment.

The third and final stop on Staalesen's cultural triangle in Bergen is the historic wooden hotel Villa Terminus, just a few steps from the train station in Bergen. The building dates back to the 1770s, and is dedicated to Fjord Norway's many writers.
Eighteen of its rooms are named after authors, and the rooms contain books by local writers you can borrow. The hotel also has a cosy library with deep chairs where you can curl up and read.

Gunnar Staalesen has of course been honoured with his own room. Amalie Skram, Jon Fosse, Ludvig Holberg, Frode Grytten and Olav H. Hauge, are also among the authors who have had rooms dedicated to them.

Hotel Villa Terminus in Bergen
Gunnar Staalesen reading from his own book inside the library at Villa Terminus in Bergen
Gunnar Staalesen reading from his own book inside the library at Villa Terminus in Bergen
“There is a small library on the second floor of this unique hotel.”

Gunnar Staalesen

“When your legs are tired from walking around in the city, you can find a book on the shelves here. For example, a book by Gunnar Staalesen.”

Gunnar Staalesen

“The man who was found drowned on Wednesday 19 October 1932 in the sea by the pier at Nøstet was quickly identified by the soaking wet papers in his inside pocket ...”

Gunnar Staalesen

If you want to read the rest of 1950. High Noon, you now know where to find the book.

Read more about Gunnar Staalesen

Gunnar Staalesen was born in 1947 in Bergen, where he still lives today. He holds a master's degree in philology. He published his first novel, Innocence Times, in 1969, when he was just 22 years old. Although he has written both novels, plays, and children's books, Gunnar Staalesen's name is first and foremost associated with crime fiction. His books about private detective Varg Veum have been published in 23 countries, including France, England, Germany, Italy, Russia and Poland, and several of them have been adapted for cinema and television. Between 1997 and 2000, he published a trilogy about Bergen, in which the story takes place over the course the last century. Staalesen has won multiple awards for his writing.

Source: Gyldendal.no

Staalesen's cultural favourites

Check out the author's recommended attractions, restaurants, and hotels for culture enthusiasts.

  • Aperitiff i 2. etasje. Foto Dag Fosse - KODE
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    KODE Art Museums and Composer Homes

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    Colonialen Fetevare

    Delicatessen & café in the heart of the city – bursting with treats from the Nordics and the continent.
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    Lysverket

    Michelin star restaurant Lysverket offers modern Nordic food with seafood from Western Norway as well as seasonal meat and vegetarian dishes.
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    Bergen

    Bergenhus Fortress

    Bergenhus Fortress is one of Norway's oldest and best preserved fortifications. The Fortress has a long history as a royal seat, episcopal see and military seat of power.
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    Bien Basar

    Bien basar is a classic Norwegian and continental restaurant located in one of the city's most iconic buildings, Kjøttbasaren.
    Book now
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    Scandic Neptun

    The place for good food, wine and art! Centrally located in the city centre. Full-service hotel with 124 rooms. Gourmet restaurant Lucullus.
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    Scandic Torget Bergen

    Scandic Torget has the best location in Bergen and the most magnificent view of the Fish Market. Scandic Torget offers comfort at a reasonable price.
    Book now
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    Beautiful small hotel close to the University, railway station and walking distance to city center.
    Book now
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    Bien centro

    Italian restaurant. Experience real Neapolitan pizza and homemade pasta on the basement floor of Permanenten (Kode Art Museums), in the center of Bergen.
    Book now
    Bryggen in Bergen
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    Bryggen is one of Bergen's and Norway's main attractions. Bryggen was built after the great fire in 1702 and is included on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
    Bergen Kunsthall
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    Bergen Kunsthall is one of Norway's premier arenas for contemporary art. Variety of exhibitions from international and Norwegian artists.
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    Bergen

    Secrets of Bergen - explore the authentic Bergen (for groups)

    Join us on a tour that shows you the real and authentic Bergen. The tour combines short walks with travel on a mini electric bus.
    DSC_9789
    Bergen

    Bryggeloftet & Stuene

    Traditional Bergen restaurant with a view of the harbour, located on the old wharf, Bryggen. Distinctive interior with roots back to 1910.
    Book now
    GamleBergen husrekke
    Bergen

    Old Bergen Museum - Bymuseet i Bergen

    In Old Bergen, the whole family can experience life in the "old days". Here you can stroll and look in the houses, feed the birds, and climb the trees.

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