Storlihytta cabin in Molde has a rich history. For Molde’s inhabitants, the walk up to the cabin is compulsory.
Text: Erik Hattrem
As the path from Hatlelia has been transformed into what is practically a hiking autostrada, there is no excuse to shy away from a trip to Storlihytta cabin and Varden. This goes for wheelchair users, too. The road up may be steep, but the quality is impeccable.
Storlihytta was built in 1872 by the Grand Hotel. In 1901, the German yacht SMY Hohenzollern arrived with an armada of boats in tow as Emperor Wilhelm II paid a visit to Norway. This time, he took the trip up to Storlihytta to host a party.
These days you won’t find any emperors in the cabin, but you will find a queen. At least a hiking queen. Maria Holo Leikarnes, the new manager of the Norwegian Trekking Assocation’s (DNT) Molde and Romsdal office, is going to meet me at Storlihytta. The trekking association has taken over the responsibility for the cabin, which has had a colourful history since the Grand Hotel days.
The moment I arrive at Storlihytta, I see Maria Holo Leikarnes, the very person I am looking for. She is pushing a large wheelbarrow full of soft drinks – the supplies for the shop, which is open from 10.00 to 20.00 every Wednesday.
“There are lots of things we want to do with the cabin and the surrounding area, now that the Norwegian Trekking Association looks after the cabin. This is their hiking cabin number 522”, she says.
We sit down in the baking sunshine on the terrace, under the Norwegian flag and with coffee in cardboard cups. Leikarnes tells me all about their future plans for Storlihytta.
“Imagine a herd of goats with GPS collars that give them a mild thump when they go outside the feeding grounds. Now that would be something. The kids would love it and the vegetation would be grazed”, says Leikarnes.
I just know that Storlihytta is in good hands now. I’m very happy about it, and so is everyone who likes to go for walks around here.
After an hour of coffee and friendly chatting, I definitely want to explore the surroundings more. This is work, after all. From Storlihytta, there is a trail known as Old Vardeveien, which takes you to – you guessed it – Varden, the city’s main viewpoint.
“What are you up to?”
The text message is from Odd Roar Lange, tourist blogger and journalist at the national newspaper Dagbladet. He lives in Molde and loves Molde, and says that one day, he will move away from Molde. Which is weird. It doesn’t make sense. Anyway, he sends me text messages, and I answer, always. We’re actually quite good friends.
“At work, just about to walk from Storlihytta towards Varden.”
“I’m leaving the house now, meet at Varden for coffee?”, Odd Roar asks.
“Do I have a choice?”, I counter.
Seven seconds later, he confirms: “Not really, no.”
Speeding up to some 140 steps per minute, I’m off to yet another gorgeous part of Moldemarka forest. The first thing I see at Varden is two or three buses with cruise tourists.
They have stopped to get a panorama picture of the fjord, of course. Everybody always takes the picture from the exact same spot. Why not just buy a postcard? But without a camera, you’re not a real tourist, only a traveller.
I chug over to Odd Roar, who is waiting for me at the cabin on the plateau.
“It’s closed”, he says, referring to the café.
Nevertheless, we knock on the window. The proprietor opens and informs us that the café is in fact closed. He is expecting a private party tonight, so he won’t be opening the doors for tourists today. We are allowed to buy an ice cream, however – through a window.
No coffee for us, but we can enjoy the view.
“The telescope over there was already here when I was a kid”, says Lange, who is in his fifties.
“It was here when I was young, too”, I reply.
“The coin slot was working then. But I can’t remember that you ever had to pay to use it”.
“The telescope is probably the only thing that has been profitable up here for the past 50 years”, Lange says.
On the way down from Varden, we choose the well maintained gravel road, which is wide enough for two cars. It goes down through the Damefallet dam, the Mølleråsen hill and the upper part of town, before returning to the city centre.
Back in the centre of Molde, my body is provided with what my brain demands after a day of sun. Simple, quick and tasty food. There are a number of dining places by the harbour, from Molde Fjordstuer on the western side to Tangenten on the eastern.
I pick one in the middle, a restaurant that serves an Italian style thin-crust pizza and ice-cold mineral water from Eira at the price of 18 Euro.
The most beautiful hike in Norway! The trip across the Romsdalseggen ridge is to be found in the middle of the…More
Make the perfect carving through untracked powder, inhale the fresh air and feel the adrenaline in the…More
Kløvstien is an old road between Romsdal and Sunnmøre, and it was an important path before Trollstigen opened…More
Join us for this magnificent tour in Eikesdalen, a charming town with 65 people. From here we go the the…More
Climb the classic tower of Innerdalen, 1.452 meters above sea level! «Innerdalstårnet», is a majestetic…More
Trollheimen triangle via three lodges, Gjevilvasshytta, Jøldalshytta and Trollheimshytta, It's one of two…More
Trollheimen triangle via three lodges, Gjevilvasshytta, Jøldalshytta and Trollheimshytta, It's one of two…
Trollheimen mountain area is known for its varied and dramatic scenery, with spectacular mountains. Most of…More
The Fjord Route (Fjordruta) is a unique hiking route - see here for more information of maps. 190 km marked…More
Explore the fantastic mountains in Romsdalen, starting from the fjord. Enjoy our old and homy lodge, located…More
Get at taste of the ocean, coast and fjord before heading up to the mountains to see them in panoramic view.…More
Innerdalen has frequently been called Norway's most beautiful mountain valley. The valley resembles a…More
Hotel Aak’s Dream Week offers marvelous ski touring experiences in fantastic surroundings. In daytime do the…More
If you are driving between Kristiansund and Ålesund you have the opportunity to drive on two National Tourist…More
If you are driving between Kristiansund and Ålesund you have the opportunity to drive on two National Tourist…
A rather steep but very good path with a beautiful view over Åndalsnes, Isfjorden, up the Romsdal Valley and…More
We give you the best ski touring in wonderful Romsdalen, combined with great homemade local and international…More
The Fjord Route - "Fjordruta" - is the name given to the newest and most unique KNT (Kristiansund and Nordmøre…More
From the car park follow the marking all the way to the cabin.More
Join us for the ultimate skitour in the backyard of Romsdal Lodge. The haute route over three days wich starts…More
The top of Strengen is 890 meters above sea level and is a great hiking destinations which can be reached from…More
There is no need to wait until you’re here to find out what you’d like to do. Filter your search and check out the offers below.