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I find dead bodies and traces of murder everywhere.

Gunnar Staalesen

You never know what dark secrets and delightful surprises lie around the next corner when strolling through Bergen with key Nordic noir writer Gunnar Staalesen.

Come along and check out one of the world's most beautiful fictional crime scenes.

Bergen's best cultural spots

With Gunnar Staalesen

Few locals are as well versed in Bergen's streets and narrow alleyways as Gunnar Staalesen. His books about tough, hard-nosed private detective Varg Veum have been translated into 20 languages and made into 12 films.

"I have written 19 novels and a handful of short stories about Varg Veum and have covered every nook and cranny of Bergen in the series. For example, in Wolves in the Dark, a man dies in the house behind us," he says.

Staalesen's cultural triangle

Staalesen has taken us to Nordnes, the first of his three cultural highlights. This is the neighbourhood where he was born in the 1940s, just a few years after his fictional hero Varg Veum.

"Varg actually grew up in the same street as myself, but he is five years older. I thought of him as one of the older boys in the street," he tells us.

A lot has changed since then. Back then, multiple families often shared space in these small wooden houses, and the streets were full of children playing.

“We are now entering Trangesmauet (Narrow Alley). Its name is self-explanatory. Maren Kristine Pedersen, the femme fatale in my series about Bergen, lives in one of these houses," says Staalesen, gesturing with his hand.

“One dark New Year's night, Maren Kristine is visited in her attic by Consul Frimann. On the way home from the visit, the Consul is brutally murdered by a person, whose identity remains unknown until the last pages of the third volume. So, lots of things have happened here in Trangesmauet," says the author.

Bergen is inextricably linked to Gunnar Staalesen and his long running series of books that have a devoted following. Staalesen is also an excellent and engaging guide who talks with warmth, pride, and passion as he shows us through the old alleyways and wooden treehouses that characterize the Nordnes neighbourhood in the old Hansa city of Bergen, that used to be one of the most important trading cities in Europe.

He takes us around the corner to Skottegaten, where several unsolved crimes are committed in the Varg Veum series.

I have found a lot of inspiration for my writing in these alleyways.

Gunnar Staalesen

This street is called Skottegaten, simply because this was where the city's Scottish community once lived.

Gunnar Staalesen

Bergen has become home to many immigrants from Germany, the Netherlands, and the British Isles. This has given the city a continental feel that it still retains today.

Some people believe — including some people from Oslo — that Bergen is the only continental city in Norway.

Gunnar Staalesen

We leave these old wooden houses behind and stroll over to Fisketorget, the fish market by the harbour.

Varg Veum's office is here in this building. It's on the fourth floor, the fourth window from the left.

Gunnar Staalesen

But even crime heroes and writers get hungry. And that brings us to Staalesen's second cultural highlight, restaurant Bien Basar.

It's located in the heart of Kjøttbasaren, an old meat market that's been converted to house modern restaurants and cafes. The stately building was erected after the cholera epidemic, which ravaged Bergen and Europe in the 1840s.

“There were once 40-45 market stalls crammed together in here. As befits the premises, Bien Basar serves classic and traditional Norwegian food,” says Staalesen.

Even here, you can find traces of the author's private detective character.

Varg Veum passes by here every day on his way to his office. In one book, he was hit by a car and almost killed here.

Gunnar Staalesen

Little do we suspect that Staalesen is about to be served a dish to die for ...

This is one of my absolute favorite dishes: persetorsk (pressed cod).

Gunnar Staalesen

For this unique Bergen dish, the cod is first marinated in a mixture that's both sweet and salty, before being pressed together to release some of the liquid. This makes the filet a little firmer than fresh cod. It's precisely this firmness that is so characteristic of persetorsk.

This dish is specially made by Gard Haugland, who is truly one of the best chefs in Bergen.

Gunnar Staalesen

After praising both chef and dish, it's time for some literary refreshment.

The third and final stop on Staalesen's cultural triangle in Bergen is the historic wooden hotel Villa Terminus, just a few steps from the train station in Bergen. The building dates back to the 1770s, and is dedicated to Fjord Norway's many writers.
Eighteen of its rooms are named after authors, and the rooms contain books by local writers you can borrow. The hotel also has a cosy library with deep chairs where you can curl up and read.

Gunnar Staalesen has of course been honoured with his own room. Amalie Skram, Jon Fosse, Ludvig Holberg, Frode Grytten and Olav H. Hauge, are also among the authors who have had rooms dedicated to them.

There is a small library on the second floor of this unique hotel.

Gunnar Staalesen

When your legs are tired from walking around in the city, you can find a book on the shelves here. For example, a book by Gunnar Staalesen.

Gunnar Staalesen

The man who was found drowned on Wednesday 19 October 1932 in the sea by the pier at Nøstet was quickly identified by the soaking wet papers in his inside pocket ...

Gunnar Staalesen

If you want to read the rest of 1950. High Noon, you now know where to find the book.

Cultural itinerary

Explore Staalesen's culture spots.

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