Nordskot in Northern Norway

It's early morning in the former fishing village of Nordskot, a breathtaking 1.5-hour express boat journey north of Bodø.

The emerald waters glisten below towering, majestic mountains, while a pair of eagles gracefully swoop down, focused on their morning hunt.

Pia, the caretaker at Naustholmen Adventure Island, arrives by boat to complete today's shopping at the local grocery shop, Nærbutikken.

"We purchase everything we need for Naustholmen here," she says.

The tiny shop, which has become somewhat of a tourist attraction in itself, boasts almost everything you need, and a lot of things you never thought you might need, ranging from fishing equipment to gloves, sunglasses, mosquito repellent, toys, and groceries. All conveniently accessible through its fully automated system, operating 24/7.

"We were honoured to have been named 'Norwegian Local Grocery Shop of the Year' in 2023," owner Nina Ingolfsen beams proudly.

"Today, people travel from far and wide just to shop here!"

Hard times

It hasn't always been like this. Just a few years ago, Nina was on the brink of giving up running her shop. Nordskot, once one of the busiest trade posts along the coast, used to welcome thousands of people during the bustling seasonal skrei fishery. However, as boats became more modern, there was less need to stop at Nordskot, leading to its slow decline.

Residents began to leave, and the elegant white houses, once symbols of prosperity, were dismantled and relocated to other parts of the country. Only a handful of aging residents remained, and the closure of the school further signalled the village's decline. The dwindling demand for both people and goods even prompted discussions among politicians about ending the express boat service to the village.

Nordskot was on the verge of becoming a ghost town.

A dream come true

Then, around 2012-2015, everything changed. Four different Norwegians, including famous polar explorers Børge Ousland and Randi Skaug, fell in love with this stunning area, and decided to build their dream right here, ultimately transforming the area by introducing some of Norway's most distinctive accommodation.

"That saved us. Our community wouldn't have survived without them," Nina reflects gratefully.

"Today, the shop is thriving, and my husband manages the arrivals of the express boat, which docks two to four times a day," she adds with a smile, glancing fondly at her two young sons, Adrian and Daniel, who assist her in the store.

"I practically grew up in a shopping cart. My mother had to tape off the shelves to keep me away from the sweets," recalls Daniel, who is also a talented musician.

Both sons can envision a future here.

"In fact, our current challenge is to secure enough housing for everyone who wants to relocate here," says the family.

A local meeting point

If you're lucky, you will get to hear him play guitar in the small café inside the shop, where you can also swap books.

" ...along with a bit of everyday gossip and a hug!" says Pia with a smile.

"We always bring our guests here before heading over to Naustholmen island. We strongly encourage tourists to support these local shops, which can be found all over Norway. They are vital to small communities, enabling locals to live here," she emphasises, before ferrying us across to the island paradise of Naustholmen in a small boat.

Friendly fellowship

After conquering the Seven Summits, renowned adventurer Randi Skaug bought the small island of Naustholmen and transformed it into a hub for outdoor adventure. It now accommodates groups and individual travellers during the summer season. People flock here to unwind, disconnect from the digital world, engage in activities like kayaking and hiking, and, most importantly, reconnect with nature and each other.

"'Friendly fellowship' is the fundamental value of this place," says Randi.

We meet with her at Butikken, a charming pub housed inside a former boathouse. This cosy spot, adorned with vintage furniture and a hot stove, serves as the heart of the property.

"We strive to source everything locally, employ a local workforce, buy local vintage items, and support the local community in every possible way. Sustainable and responsible tourism is also about maintaining thriving communities in remote areas," she says.

Recreate and renovate

"It's important for me to stay small and reconstruct the old buildings rather than building something new. This helps preserve the island's unique character and intimate atmosphere," says Randi, who has also penned a cookbook featuring treats from the island.

"Our cuisine is simple and unpretentious, using local ingredients like fish, moose, deer, and whale, often with a dash of Asian flavour. It's always delicious and colourful," she adds.

You can also relax in a hot sauna, get a massage in the newly built boathouse by the sea, or chase the northern lights or enjoy the midnight sun.

The unique place has even been featured on Ben Fogle's popular BBC series New Lives in the Wild.

State-of-the-art

"The cabins here have a bit of a Star Wars flair, don't you think?" says Randi.

Across the strait, polar explorer Børge Ousland has built a state-of-the-art haven for those who love great architecture, food, and design (along with some amazing stories from the North Pole and South Pole).

In 2023, he completed the last of the truly unique cabins on his island: two black towers equipped with solar panels. A vast glass roof covers the top floor, featuring a double bed, while the first floor offers a cosy lounge with panoramic views across the water, which seems to almost flow into the cabin.

"I feel a personal obligation and responsibility to invest in a more sustainable future and to contribute to reducing our consumption. I don't intend to build more cabins; this will never become a tourist machine. I want my guests to experience 'invisible luxury' and cultivate a profound connection with nature," he says.

Crafted in collaboration with the Norwegian architect Snorre Stinessen, the cabins have won several international awards for their distinctive architecture, and have been featured in numerous prestigious travel and architecture magazines worldwide.

Delicious locally-sourced food

Wild sheep and lamb roam freely around the island. They not only mow the lawn, they also help fertilise the soil. The salty grass and sea-weed on which they graze give their meat a very tender and distinct flavour.

Despite its Arctic location, the airy restaurant with panoramic views primarily serves locally-sourced food.

"We do a lot of fishing ourselves, and we source wild game like moose, as well as vegetables and potatoes from the farmers on Engeløya island here in Steigen," Børge explains.

"We also forage mushrooms, berries, and seaweed, which we preserve for use throughout the year," adds head chef Ondrej Tajdik, just before serving us the most delicious black currant sorbet we've ever tasted.

He loves experimenting.

"I like to focus on one thing at a time. I've recently been experimenting with bread—making fermented bread juice, bread ice cream, bread caramel, and many other tasty bread dishes," he continues.

Step back in time

But there's more in store for you here. Just across a picturesque, old bridge from Naustholmen lies Grøtøya, the largest of the three 'tourist islands' outside Nordskot. Perched atop a hill, lies the charming and venerable Villa Haugen Boutique Hotel.

Island Nostalgia

Former engineers Unni Johnsen and John Magne Birkeland were originally looking for a holiday cabin when they found themselves stranded on the small island of Grøtøya in 2014 in a winter storm.

Completely enamoured with the refurbished Villa Haugen, they made the spontaneous decision to purchase it and start a completely new life, following their hearts.

Here, it's easy to imagine how the islands might have been in the days when Grøtøya was still a thriving centre of trade, boasting a telegraph, bank, and several shops, back when the ladies wore long dresses and high heels.

"They used to say: 'If you can't buy it here, you don't need it,'" reminisces John Magne.

An authentic atmosphere

Today's Villa Haugen is a reconstructed replica of the old house that once stood here. The owners have gone to great lengths to preserve the authentic, nostalgic style, incorporating numerous art deco pieces and vintage furniture to preserve the history and spirit of the island.

Guests can choose from a variety of unique rooms and indulge in the sauna, hot tub, and the west-facing pier pub.

The welcoming hosts also serve exceptional food, preparing meals for the guests themselves. Sustainability is a priority here.

"We make sure to use every part of the fish. A significant portion of the catch is not filleted, but can still be used to create delicious dishes," says John Magne as he serves us his incredibly tasty homemade fish cakes, crafted from a variety of different species of fish.

Heaven for sea activities

Nordskot Brygge was actually the first tourism business established in the area, in 2012, and thus the one that started it all.

John Åge Handberg and Marit Sjøvoll purchased the place as a holiday home in Nordskot in 2006, but after a few years, seeking respite from the hustle and bustle of Bodø, they decided to relocate to Nordskot permanently. Here, they established a self-catering apartment hotel and a center for sea activities such as fishing, stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), kayaking, and RIB safaris.

"Our pier and buildings are modern interpretations of the houses that stood here before. We wanted to maintain the authentic atmosphere," the couple tells us.

Sauna time

Many of the independent housing units are set up in the style of old fisherman's cabins, the rorbu, that used to house Lofoten's fishermen in the past.

"There are still excellent fishing opportunities here, including for halibut. However, we also host many hikers and kayakers," they inform us.

And at the end of a long and active day, guests can unwind in their stylish floating sauna.

"This is an offer that is also appreciated by many of the locals," they tell us.

Unique destinations

Four distinct destinations, so close to each other. Why not explore them all?

"The great thing about Nordskot is that we have such a good and close collaboration. You can stay in one location while enjoying meals, activities, or excursions on other islands," Handberg explains.

Your hosts will help arrange boat transportation between the islands.

Participate in guided kayak or fishing trips, rent a boat, hike alone or with a guide. If you are feeling adventurous, you can embark on the challenging Nordskot mountain traverse.

Aurora nights

Back in our tower cabin at Manshausen, the final rays of sunshine cast a deep red hue over the majestic mountains.

We unwind in the steaming hot sauna and invigorate ourselves with a quick, refreshing dip in the underlit, emerald green swimming pond, sending waves of dopamine coursing through our bodies, leaving us feeling revitalised and utterly alive.

Suddenly, the sky ignites into a vast, pulsating display of green waves, first above the cabins, then spreading over the mountains. It's almost overwhelming, and surreal! The aurora borealis continues its mesmerising dance, captivating us with its arctic spectacle.

Yet, the most awe-inspiring moment is yet to unfold.

As darkness descends, a trillion stars emerge, seemingly within arm's reach. I lay down in the soft bed of the tower suite beneath the glass roof, feeling like the entire universe is enveloping my sanctuary.

It's a truly existential moment.