Norwegian wool is like wearing nature

The best way to experience the purity of Norwegian nature is to dress in Norwegian wool, which is finally seeing some well deserved success thanks to new designs, according to Tone Skårdal Tobiasson, a former fashion magazine editor-in-chief turned wool authority.

Tone is dressed in wool from top to toe. On her desk, her computer is wrapped in a wool cover which replicates the diamond twill material of a tunica from around the year 400CE. The garment was recently discovered when parts of a glacier melted in central Norway.

Tone Skårdal Tobiasson, who is a project manager at NICE (Norwegian Initiative Clean and Ethical Fashion), is the co-author of the book Strikk med norsk ull, 'Knitting with Norwegian Wool', and is a driving force when it comes to bringing designers and the wool industry together as well as encouraging new takes on old wool traditions.

Properly dressed for hiking

“It’s simple. If you want to have a good experience in the varied Norwegian nature, you should dress in wool, preferably Norwegian wool. Wool regulates the body's temperature, a fact which surprises most people. It ensures that you never get too hot or too cold, regardless of the season,” says Tone, who has also heard rumours that the fitted carpet in the Oval Office in the White House is made of Norwegian wool.

“The exceptional crimp of Norwegian wool makes it extremely sought-after,” says Tone.

While the use of Norwegian wool goes back way longer than the Viking Era, its qualities have for years been underestimated by an industry which has preferred the benefits of merino wool from other parts of the world. According to Tone, it is a myth that all Norwegian wool itches. And it is indeed stronger and more durable than your typical merino fibre.

World-class lustre

“Think about it: Norwegian lamb meat is considered a world-class delicacy, so there is no reason its wool shouldn’t enjoy the same success. I have many times heard it said that Norwegian sweaters are indestructible and that their wool is uncommonly lustrous,” says Tone.

There has recently been a great deal of hype in the fashion world surrounding Norwegian wool. According to Tone, the hype has now evolved into something bigger, aided by new designs by Norwegian wool mills and the rise of the athleisure trend.

“The thickness of the wool works well with traditional Norwegian knitted sweaters and cardigans; this thickness stems from the fact that the animals live great lives,” says Tone.

“Our sheep feed on lush Norwegian nature. Unlike most merino breeds in hot and dry climates, our sheep eat green grass, leaves, herbs, flowers, and heather. Norwegian sheep are truly powered by nature. Just like with people, the good life is evident in the thickness of their hair (or fur, in this case) and turns the wool into a luxurious fibre,” Tone says.

A cool climate also reduces bacteria and other pest issues, hence there is no need for ‘dipping’ in strong chemicals. As much as 75% of Norwegian wool production has therefore been approved by the Swan, a Nordic eco-label.

A selection of Norwegian wool manufacturers

Krivi Vev
The weaving mill Krivi Vev in Tingvoll in Møre og Romsdal blends wool from Norway’s oldest sheep breeds into materials like those the Vikings once wore.

Varp & Veft
Located in the city of Sandnes near Stavanger, Varp & Veft uses wool from the rare Grey Trønder, an ancient breed of sheep that was considered to be extinct until 1992, when a small flock was discovered in the county of Telemark. Today, the stock consists of around 800 sheep.

Lofoten Wool & Art
Run by craftswoman Ragnhild Lie in Lofoten, Lofoten Wool & Art's customers can shop directly from her outlet, Høystålet.

Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk
Tone Skårdal Tobiasson recommends visiting Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk, just north of Bergen. The factory is a member of Economusée, an international network of artisans. “Explore the whole value chain, the wool production process, and the beautiful machines from the late 1800s,” says Tone.

Oleana
In Ytre Arna, just outside Bergen, you'll find the Oleana knitwear factory, located in a building that originally housed the first textile mill in Western Norway. Oleana has a strong focus on sustainability and the use of more environmentally friendly, natural fibres like silk and alpaca.

A more environmentally friendly alternative

“All in all, wool is positive for the climate,” Tone says, adding: "Of course it depends on how you look at it, but seen as a whole, these animals contribute a lot to nature. When they fertilise the soil, they help capture carbon. And their constant grazing keep the landscape open so visitors can enjoy the view.”

Bring the feeling home

Tone is instrumental in launching new woollen-based product ideas, and she has many tips for visitors who want to bring something warm and wonderful home. “After all, I suppose that Chinese visitors would prefer to bring home a woollen blanket or sweater that is made in Norway, not in China, and with wool from a flock they may actually have glimpsed grazing happily.”

Tone’s top tips for shopping and factory visits

Tone is enthusiastic about the many startups and designers now experimenting with Norwegian wool.

Rauma Collection and Lillunn

Rauma Collection sweaters are available in the handicraft shops Norsk Flid and Husfliden, which you can find in many Norwegian towns and cities. These shops also stock Lillunn Design, iconic woven outerwear made with Norwegian wool.

Dale of Norway and Devold

Dale of Norway offers a wide range of traditional Norwegian wool sweaters. Devold makes sports products and traditional fishermen's sweaters that are sold everywhere from its home city of Ålesund to New York and beyond.

Røros Tweed

Tone also loves the famous classic Røros Tweed blanket made in Norwegian wool. “This company from the city of Røros has a long history and cooperates with everyone from Norwegian designers at Snøhetta to artists like Bjarne Melgaard,” she says.

Tingvoll Ull

Tingvoll is a new company that is doing amazing things with wool in its natural, undyed colours.

Oslo Mikrospinneri

This small local yarn mill focuses on locally sourced, high quality wool refined through craftsmanship and a deep love of the raw material. Oslo Mikrospinneri is now also available in the US.

Woodling

Woodling strives to develop and optimise Norwegian wool fibres and spin them in a way that is better suited to fashion garments. The company recently opened a knitting factory in Jæren that uses locally sourced wool in a number of its products, some of which are spun by Sandnes Garn, the biggest hand knitting yarn producer in Northern Europe.