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Three men standing around a milestone on the pilgrimage path to Trondheim, Norway

Pilgrimage in Norway.
Photo: David Tett

On a pilgrimage to Trondheim

Joly and the two Daves

What drives three blokes to take off on an adventurous wild camping pilgrimage?

pilegrimsleden.no

Pilgrimage in Norway

The St. Olav Ways – the pilgrim paths to Trondheim – consist of nine pilgrim routes, all leading to the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. The routes make up a total of around 3,000 kilometres of tranquil scenery through picturesque villages with a strong cultural heritage.

In the winter of 2009, Joly Braime from the UK was visiting the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, when he spotted an information board about the St. Olav Ways. The idea of setting out on a pilgrimage in Norway percolated in his mind for another five years, until in summer 2014, a break in-between jobs provided the perfect opportunity. He had a full month to hike from Oslo to Trondheim, with his British friend Dave flying out to walk with him for the middle two weeks.

The rest of the time he’d planned to walk alone, but within the first few days, he started bumping into a friendly American pilgrim from Michigan, also named Dave. After crossing paths enough times, they fell into step and ended up walking the rest of the way to Trondheim together. Joly talks about his journey with the two Daves and the wild stuff they experienced on their pilgrimage to Trondheim.

Two men wearing backpacks hiking the Gudbrandsdalen path, the pilgrim trail St. Olav Ways to Trondheim, across Dovrefjell in Eastern Norway

Hiking the pilgrim trail St. Olav Ways across Dovrefjell.
Photo: David Tett

What was it that fascinated you about going on a pilgrimage in Norway?

“The idea of walking all that way and just camping up when you’d had enough for the day seemed like such an adventure. And I was really keen to make the most of the wild camping because it’s illegal in most of England.”

Is there a difference between ordinary hiking and a pilgrimage?

“There are a lot of nice things about hiking, but I think it does feel different when you’re hiking a route where people know what you’re doing. All the people who live along the way are familiar with the trail, so everyone knew we were pilgrims and were often welcoming or interested. The hospitality was really interesting. We often had people helping us out.”

Two man with backpacks during a pilgrimage in Dovrefjell, Eastern Norway

Pilgrimage over Dovrefjell.
Photo: David Tett

“It was a really hot summer, and I remember one day I was slogging down the road in the baking hot sunshine and suddenly a lady came running out of her garden gate, waving a bottle of cold water for me. She ended up inviting me in to have a cup of coffee and a bit of lunch with her family. Those sorts of things happened from time to time.”

Were there any interesting experiences that you felt you might not have had as an ordinary hiker?

“Actually, the churches were an interesting experience along the way. None of us was particularly religious, but they were nice places to stop for a little bit of contemplation and a rest. When we got to a church that was open, we would go inside and sit there in silence for about ten or fifteen minutes, just to have a bit of a think.”

“It was a sort of punctuation to the trip that wouldn’t exist on other adventures. They’re very spiritual and relaxing places and each one was so different from the last. You get wooden ones, stone ones, slate ones, some are very old, and some are very modern.”

Why is it that people start asking big and important questions on a trip like this?

“Well, there’s a lot of time to think, of course, but perhaps it’s also because it’s a route that was devised in the first place for people to stop and contemplate along the way. You almost can’t avoid it.”

“You’re walking a route that people have walked for hundreds of years before you, at important junctures in their lives, and that adds a sort of spiritual aspect to the trip. And the way the people treat you is important too. You’re so instantly recognizable as a pilgrim. In quite an old-fashioned way you felt looked-after.”

The Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway on a summer day

The Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.
Photo: Sven-Erik Knoff

How was it to reach your goal?

“It was lovely and the timing was perfect. When we got into Trondheim, there was this big festival with a medieval market going on. It felt like walking into the Middle Ages. Everything had been quiet and peaceful for such a long time and suddenly there was all the commotion of the city.”

“Trondheim is such a pretty place to walk into. And the cathedral is beautiful. A pilgrim priest spotted us almost as soon as we got there. He was straight up to us and said: ‘Are you pilgrims? You’ve arrived, congratulations!”