Widely travelled journalist and discerning adventurer, Jens A. Riisnæs, lists his 25 favourite places in Norway, many of which are off the beaten path.
“I wanted to list some not-so-obvious parts of Norway that are just as rewarding as the more well-known destinations. These are all trips I have personally taken and would like to do again,” says Riisnæs. According to him, Norway has the advantage of being a high-tech society, a laboratory of the future mixed with historical elements from all the way back to the Stone Age.
“From the very start of tourism, Norway has been among the world’s top destinations,” says Riisnæs. “When it comes to natural beauty, few other countries can compete. We have the fjords, the midnight sun, the northern lights, the Gulf stream and a change between the seasons like no other country in the world. The Sami people traditionally divide the year into eight seasons. I myself think we have at least eleven.”
Riisnæs describes Norway as a living folk museum, open for everyone to explore (and taste!).
“It’s the ideal country for conscious, modern travelling, and Norwegian cuisine has improved a lot in recent years. Our cooking has always benefited from fresh, natural ingredients. We also have the know-how to utilise them to the highest international standards.”
Here are Riisnæs's 25 favourite places in Norway (in random order):
1. Stadtlandet and Vågsøy
Fjord Norway
A paradise for surfers, the unsheltered peninsula Stadtlandet and the island of Vågsøy are also home to Norway’s oldest monastery ruins and three lighthouses that offer accommodation. The village of Hoddevika has even established a reputation as one of the more exotic surfing destinations in the world (against some incredibly stiff competition!). The three lighthouses, all of which boast panoramic views of the sea, are called Hendanes, Kråkenes and Skogsnes.
2. Island hopping north of the Sognefjord
Fjord Norway
If there is one area in Norway where you can go “island hopping” in the full sense of the word, it is north of the Sognefjord. The Solund archipelago and Værlandet have phenomenal scenery and lots of small communities, which means it's easy to get around with scheduled boat services. Best of all, however, is sea kayaking! Kayaking enthusiasts from all over the world discovered this island paradise a long time ago. In summer, numerous pleasure boats join them in the wide open spaces.
3. The fjord valleys leading to the Trollheimen and Dovrefjell mountains
Fjord Norway
Todalen, Innerdalen, Sunndalen, Litjdalen, Grødalen and Eikesdalen are a cluster of valleys that extend from the ocean into the high mountains of Trollheimen and Dovre. The area has excellent opportunities for walking and climbing, but also for cycling and driving. Try the gravel road Aursjøvegen from Eikesdalen to the small town of Sunndalsøra via Aursjøen and the Litjadalen valley, for example.
4. Rock formations by the Lysefjord and the Lysebotn hairpin bends
Fjord Norway
Together with the Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, the Lysefjord is Norway's most photographed fjord. This is hardly surprising considering the spectacular rock formations the Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) and Kjeragbolten, the latter of which is a prime destination for base jumpers. The most fascinating route between Kristiansand and Stavanger runs via the Lysebotn hairpin bends down to the Lysefjord.
5. The Ålfotbreen glacier and Nordfjord
Fjord Norway
Vingen is the largest petroglyph field in the Nordic countries. It's located in Nordfjord near Norway's tallest sea cliff, Hornelen, which towers 860 metres above the sea. This walk goes all the way down to the Hyefjord and is a typical Norwegian hike featuring both fjord landscapes and inland mountains. The tour goes through distinctive geological formations from the Devonian Age, across Norway’s westernmost glacier the Ålfotbreen via the mountain cabins at Blåbrebu and Gjegnabu. Guided tours of the glaciers are strongly recommended. Just remember to bring suitable clothes as this is the wettest area in Norway, with 10 times more rain than Bergen.
6. From the top of the Hardangervidda plateau down to the fjord
Fjord Norway
One of the many fantastic walks that include both mountains and fjords in Hardanger, from Eidfjord down to Husedalen, a stunning valley with four distinctive waterfalls. On the way you will experience the nature in the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord and pass the wild Hjølodalen and the mountain cabins in Viveli, Hedlo and Hadlaskard. The hike also includes the Hårteigen mountain, the highest point and a great landmark on the Hardangervidda plateau, and finally Husedalen and the Munketreppene, the 'Monks’ sherpa stairs'.
7. The innermost part of the Sognefjord
Fjord Norway
Deep down in the Sognefjord you will find the Lustrafjord with the Hurrungane mountains and the mountaineering centre at Turtagrø, as well as Veitastrond and the Jostedalen valley that are tucked in behind the Jostadalsbreen glacier. The area also boasts Norway’s oldest stave church Urnes, which is located in an enchanting setting on a promontory in the Lustrafjord. This part of the Sognefjord has the best the region can offer, with countless outdoor pursuits between the fjords and the glaciers.
8. Norway’s best-preserved sailing ship town: Skudeneshavn
Fjord Norway
Skudeneshavn is a coastal town that flourished during the great Age of Sail in the 19th century. Today it is known for its more than 200 well-preserved traditional white wooden houses. Many of the houses were built in the 1850s and are lovingly maintained by their proud owners, many of whom are from Stavanger, just a ferry crossing away.
9. Adventures in the wilderness: Lyngsalpene mountain range
Northern Norway
Lyngen, known as “The Alps by the sea”,firmly belongs on the international extreme wilderness map. It's a paradise for both traditional and modern adventures in nature: from fishing, hunting ,and classic mountaineering to ski touring, biking, diving, and hang gliding.
10. The fishing village of Hamn in Senja
Northern Norway
Hamn in Senja is a picturesque fishing village with an industrial past. Electric power was introduced here as early as 1882. It was supplied by one of the world’s two first hydroelectric power stations, built for the local nickel mines. This traditional fishing village is a great base for exploring the island of Senja.
11. On the northern border
Northern Norway
In Finnmark, the northeast corner of Norway has a number of interesting attractions. Near the border, you can visit several churches, including Oscar II’s Chapel in Grense Jakobselv and the Protestant Church and St George’s Chapel in Neiden, as well as the Finnish-Norwegian fishing village of Bugøynes. From Kirkenes, you can drive from Bjørnevatn lake to Øvre Pasvik National Park. Varanger has one of Norway's largest nesting sites for Arctic birds, while Ytre Jarfjord offers fun activities like red king crab safaris. Further west you will find the Treriksrøysa cairn, the point where Norway, Sweden and Finland meet.
12. The outermost Lofoten islands
Northern Norway
On the islands Moskenesøya, Værøy and Røst in Lofoten, you can experience a unique mixture of breathtaking scenery, formed by thousands of years of fishing activities, and modern-day demands of tourism. Here you will find art galleries and fresh spices like chilli, ginger and garlic. See the midnight sun in summer or chase the northern lights in winter. Between February and April, fishermen hunt for skrei, the migrating cod that comes to the coast of Northern Norway to spawn every year.
Check out the unique tower at Røst called Ettertanken!
13. The island kingdoms of Træna and Myken
Northern Norway
These two island kingdoms far out at sea have been settled for more than 6,000 years, and have a rich cultural heritage and ancient monuments to explore. Træna is located 61 kilometres off the Helgeland coast and offers everything from art and culture to saunas and cosy cafes. You can hop on a local ferry and visit the island of Sanna, where the famous rock formation Trænstaven soars above the ocean. Træna is also where salmon farming first started in Northern Norway and where the local Træna festival has achieved international cult status.
Further out, you'll find Myken, a small island with only 11 full-time residents. Nevertheless, it has a modern whisky distillery (!).
14. Gjesvær – a classic fishing village
Northern Norway
Gjesvær is a quintessential Finnmark fishing village near three distinctive bird nesting islands, called Stappane. The area is home to Norway’s biggest puffin colony of more than 350,000 birds. It is Norway’s northernmost archipelago, comprising over 100 islands. The northernmost point is mentioned in Snorre’s Saga of the Norse Kings from the 13th century. You can also explore landmarks that predate the Viking Era.
15. The hidden gem of Vistenfjord
Northern Norway
The Vistenfjord, located on the Helgeland coast between the Vega Islands and the Seven Sisters mountain, is often referred to as “the unknown fjord”. It is one of Northern Europe’s most varied natural biotopes, with traces of hunting and fishing activities dating back 9,000 years. There are permanent settlements both by the mouth of the fjord and at Bønå, where a local sheep farmer/fisherman and his family run a wilderness centre offering a variety of outdoor pursuits.
16. The Røros region
Trøndelag
The traditional, UNESCO-listed mining community of Røros is situated on a high mountain plateau. One of Europe’s biggest copper deposits was discovered here, which created massive wealth – at least in Copenhagen, where most of the copper ended up. It was used as roofing for monumental buildings, including at the Stock Exchange with its famous dragon spire. Røros itself may be the only mining town in the world that is almost exclusively built of wood – see it for yourself on a guided tour of the mines and the town. Røros is also one of Norway’s leading regions for locally produced food. Sample some delicacies on a food safari!
17. The medieval Nidaros Cathedral
Trøndelag
In the Middle Ages, the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim was as important for pilgrims as Santiago de Compostela. Although the interior was stripped of many of its art treasures during the Reformation, it still has a special place among Europe’s cathedrals – not least because of its sheer size. In fact, it is by far the biggest cathedral in Europe to be located so far from Rome.
18. An exotic offshoot of the Setesdalen valley
Southern Norway
The hilly, wooded landscape from the valley of Tovdal to the village of Åraksbø represents Southern Norway at its most impressive. Tovdal is one of the most diverse forest and low-lying mountain biotopes in Southern Norway. One of the finest inland walks in the area goes from Dale down to Åraksbø in Setesdal, home to Huageburet, a building that dates back to 1219. Along the way you pass the waterfall Rjukan, Stuvestøyl, Videstøyl, the Juvass stream and Skuggefjell mountain. Canoes are available to rent at Hillestad.
19. The archipelago of Southern Norway
Southern Norway
The Southern Norway archipelago consists of thousands of islands and skerries, from the Ryvingen Lighthouse to Jomfruland Island. There are literally tens of thousands of smooth rocky shore areas that are hugely popular in the summer. It's an amazing area for sea kayaking, both for beginners and the more experienced. The islands close to the mainland are sheltered from the sea, which makes canoes a great way of getting around.
20. The North Sea Cycle Route from Mandal to Hafrsfjord
Southern Norway
The coastal road from Mandal to Hafrsfjord is part of the North Sea Cycle Route (Shetland, the Orkney islands, Scotland, England, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway). More than 6,000 kilometres long, it is the world’s longest signposted cycle route. The highlight of the North Sea Cycle Route is arguably the 250-kilometre-long stretch from Mandal to Hafrsfjord via Lindesnes and Lista, Hauge and Egersund, with a beautiful and varied coastal landscape.
21. Norwegian industrial history in Rjukan
Telemark
The dramatic Rjukandalen Valley and its powerful waterfalls represent the essence of Norway as a modern industrial nation. At the Norwegian Industrial Workers Museum in the Vemork Power Plant, you can learn how the waterfalls were harnessed to generate hydroelectric power. The process lay the foundation for Norway’s transformation from a nation of poor fishermen and farmers into a rich and prosperous industrial country over the course of just a few generations.
22. The canoeing paradise of Velmunden
Eastern Norway
Located 396 metres above sea level between the Randsfjord and Sperillen lakes, Velmunden/Fjorda is Eastern Norway’s undisputed canoeing paradise. There are countless canoeing routes to explore, and the youngest members of the family can play in an almost totally unspoiled landscape of islands and lakes. Those who are interested in cultural history can visit the old Finnish settlements, a testimonial to the immigration that was a result of the famine in Finland 400 years ago.
23. The Oscarsborg Fortress
Eastern Norway
Oscarsborg Fortress stands on a beautiful island in the narrowest section of the Oslofjord. Today, it is primarily a monument to Norway’s military history. At dawn on 9 April 1940, the fortress fired the cannons and torpedoes that sank the German heavy cruiser Blücher. This gave Norway’s King Haakon VII and the Government the time they needed to flee further north, from where they were evacuated to London to continue the fight against the Nazi occupation.
24. The untamed wilderness of Femundsmarka
Eastern Norway
This wilderness area near the Swedish border is a more rugged alternative to Velmunden, more on a par with Alaska and the Yukon. The national parks Femundsmarka and Gutulia, on the Norwegian side of the border, and Töfsingdalen on the Swedish side, form one of the most distinctive high mountain biotopes in Scandinavia. When the great botanist Carl von Linné explored the area in 1734, he encountered falconers in there.
25. The historic Telemark Canal
Eastern Norway
The Telemark Canal stretches from Henrik Ibsen’s home town od Skien to Dalen, close to one of Telemark’s classic fjord lakes, Bandak. Visitors can explore the canal, which was constructed with an intricate system of locks, in just a few hours. Dalen is close to other interesting attractions, too, including Morgedal, known as “the cradle of skiing”, the historic Nutheim Hotel in Flatda,l and the Hardangervidda plateau.
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